Sunday 28 December 2008

Tokyo Construction


Until recently, there was a large space with two giant, derelict open warehouse buildings behind the kindergarten I work at in Meguro. They were there until the JCBs arrived. We’re on the 8th floor and for the past fortnight, watching the wrecking and disassembly of the buildings has been a brilliant daily distraction for teachers and toddlers alike. Well, for the boys- the girls are turned off while we all gape at the sheer power of it all and drool over hydraulics. Even the girls agree that the diggers look like dinosaurs though, and that’s got to be pretty cool by anyone’s book.

Normally hidden behind construction site barriers, I’ve seen those diggers exhibit their full repertoire of tricks, both delicate and destructive. The same clipper that makes matchsticks out of metal girders can pick up a hose pipe and drop it unscathed. The wrecking head that caves in a roof one second carefully nudges a cone out of the path of the digger the next. It’s awesome stuff.

However, the real stars of the show are undoubtedly the Japanese construction workers themselves. Late on one day we watched one worker demonstrating to another the perfect golf swing, using a piece of scrap metal. He actually walked him through it, showing how to swivel and move your body just like a pro on the fairway. Also, for no apparent reason, at least one worker will always aim a hose at whatever carnage the diggers are wreaking, and there always be one man dressed impeccably in uniform at the gate to the construction site.

Then one day the Shinto priest arrived. Barely visible from so high, tucked in a corner near the entrance stood a tiny torii gate. If it weren’t painted in the distinctive and eye-catching vermilion colour, we might never have noticed it. While chaos was orchestrated by the dinosaurs and the buildings came crashing down, the construction workers shielded the torii like it was the last living thing on earth- the entire site was covered in rubble and brick dust except for this one corner. The priest got straight down to business making peace with whatever god or spirit resided there. He cut an incongruous figure in ceremonial robes, standing shoulder to shoulder with the construction workers but asserted himself immediately, pushing them into the right place before beginning. It made for a hilarious slapstick scene and you could just hear him saying ‘No, not there, there!’ as they shuffled about awkwardly, helmets in hands. Next the priest threw some paper about, beat himself on the back of the shoulders with a stick of some sort and bowed and turned and bowed a lot. Clearly, I know about as much about the sacred rites as the construction workers. The next time I was able to glance down at the corner, the torii gate and the priest had gone. There should still be some buildings left though if you want to witness the greatest construction show in Tokyo.

Thursday 18 December 2008

Ambitions

I found myself on the longest road in Japan the other day. Somewhere near Togoshiginza station. It seemed kind of fitting for the evening that followed. My frisbee team had an End-of-Year party (Bonenkai) and a lot of the team plus a few new faces showed up. One or two of the new faces were co-workers of Jei and Kerry, both employed by Wall Street Associates, a recruitment firm. One of the new faces was none other than the ex-President of AJET, the main support network and social branch of the JET programme. it's a big position. She had moved from the top of the JET programme to Wall Street Associates and was soon to return to the States to work in the State Department under Hillary Clinton.

A few weeks ago, I finally took the Japanese Language Proficiency Test, for which I stayed in Japan. I happened to pick up full-time employment in a kindergarten / international school for Japanese kids whilst looking for enough to survive until the test and now that's what I do. I moved on from teaching English in the countryside, to teaching English in the city, and I can't help but wonder where did it all go wrong?!

Sunday 14 December 2008

二郎 Ramen Shop

Co-workers Kei and Kuni working in the Tavern pub keep a book, 'Uwasa no Ramen', or 'Gossip/Rumour Ramen' that Kei picked up in a second hand bookstore. It's kind of my bible. Kuni pointed out his recommendations, including the guide's no.1 ramen shop (at least, 2007's no. 1), just down the road from me. Jiro.

I thought maybe I'd gone too far but then I saw a couple of men queuing outside the doorway of an establishment. The first good sign. The second good sign, though I didn't realise it immediately, was a big barrel of a man with a squint in one eye and a greasy t-shirt on, loitering beside the customers sat at the counter. The third and final good sign was the lack of options at the token-vending machine. Many ramen shops use vending system, rather than burden the ramen chefs with cash handling and the machines usually display a good two dozen options of size, soup and toppings. Jiro had 6. There was no distinction between miso, soy or salt-soup ramen. You know a ramen joint means business when they don't even identify their soup. It's not miso, soy or salt, it's just meat broth.

Once a couple of customers had vacated their seats and hurried on, I took a place and the second good sign came good. A space had been created at the counter and the man with a squint starting passing over plastic sacks of meat. The good stuff. When my bowl of noodles and meat broth arrived shortly after, it was topped off with a chunk of meat the succulence of which I have rarely tasted in a ramen joint. And the final touch, a fistful of chopped garlic tossed on top. I didn't eat again that day.

Wednesday 3 December 2008

Absent

It's been a while.

I moved. Still no internet in the house yet. Lots has happened and I've been itching to write, to tell all.

There have been happenings at school.

A few things, a couple of ideas have crossed my mind.

I've been on a couple of fun outings.

And then there's the sorry tale of how I was cuckolded. Well, I guess strictly speaking I wasn't cuckolded. But it's still a rather amusing tale. It'll have to wait.